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News Physiol Sci 1: 23-25, 1986;
1548-9213/86 $5.00
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News in Physiological Sciences, Vol 1, 23-25, Copyright © 1986 by International Union of Physiological Sciences

ARTICLES

Climbing Mount Everest Without Oxygen

JB West

The ascent of Mount Everest (altitude 8,848 m) by two climbers without supplementary oxygen in 1978 was a feat that astonished many physiologists;indeed, measurements of maximal oxygen uptake at lower altitudes suggested that it would be impossible. Data obtained in 1981 at extreme altitudes, including the summit itself, showed that man can tolerate the extreme hypoxia only by an enormous increase in ventilation. Even so, the arterial PO2 is apparently less that 30 Torr and maximal oxygen intake only about one liter per minute. Under these conditions man is at the utmost limit of tolerance to hypoxia, and even day-by-day variations of barometric pressure probably affect performance.




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